With the explosive growth of its middle class and the ranks of
high-wealth individuals, mainland China is seeing an equal boom in
the thirst for luxury goods like watches, handbags and perfume. Now
the world's second-largest market for luxury brands, China could
unseat Japan for the top spot within a few years. But first foreign
brands must build a market from scratch in the second- and
third-tier cities where much of the growth is expected to
occur.
Consumers in cities like Zhuhai, Shaoxing and Wuxi are estimated
to have accounted for more than 60% of the growth in China's luxury
buyers in 2008 and 2009, according to a recent Bain & Company
study. China boasts at least 120 cities with populations exceeding
one million, and consumers in these secondary cities have the
buying power of shoppers in China's largest urban centers. But
foreign companies hoping to capture this market are running into
hurdles trying to match supply with demand.
The first major problem is staffing. Luxury brands sell
consumers in part on a certain lifestyle idea, and it's important
for sales staff to understand what the customers are aspiring to in
buying the product.
One company whose chief executive participated in our survey
discovered recently that most of its sales managers outside China's
biggest cities had never experienced such niceties as a luxury spa
or upscale restaurant. They weren't equipped to understand what it
felt like to be served as a luxury customer. So the company began
sending its employees to an upscale hotel for two-week stints so
they could "experience a life of luxury," according to the chief
executive.
Some luxury companies recruit for sales trainees at China's top
universities. And to keep employees in smaller cities from
abandoning jobs on the sales floor for office work-generally
considered more prestigious in China-companies have started
offering international rotations as an inducement not to look for
jobs elsewhere.
Then there's the need for luxury brands to differentiate
themselves in a crowded field. China's high-end market is highly
fragmented, with no single brand dominating individual product
categories. This is starting to change: In each luxury-goods
category, five brands account for around 50% of the market,
indicating early signs of concentration. The key here will be
brand-building.
Weaker brands already are finding it tough to compete with the
likes of Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Hermès or Gucci, which have
advertised for years to build name recognition. Companies also have
to remember that recognition in one part of the country won't
necessarily translate elsewhere. For example, watchmaker Rolex
started in the South of the country near Hong Kong and built strong
positions there. But when it moved into the Northern provinces, it
had to invest heavily in print ads, events and in-store displays to
reach its new customer base.
And there's another nagging fact of life in China's luxury
market: Chinese consumers make more luxury purchases abroad than at
home. In 2008, mainland stores rang up only 40% of all luxury sales
made to Chinese consumers. Prices are simply lower abroad,
especially given China's stiff duties on luxury imports, and
shoppers find a better selection.
So companies have to cultivate customer loyalty both at home and
abroad. Some have built databases of VIP shoppers so they can track
their best customers even when they're shopping in places like Hong
Kong or Singapore, and alert employees to give them top-notch
service. Skilled store managers use data about these best
customers' preferences to develop personalized relationships,
offering everything from personal shoppers to advance notice of
off-season sales to perks like free product maintenance.
All that said, there are still also many opportunities to go
alongside the challenges. The Internet is a big chance to reach new
customers. While fewer than 10% of Chinese consumers do their
luxury-goods shopping online, some companies have launched websites
to appeal to shoppers who use the Internet to research luxury
products before buying-a group of shoppers that has grown 30% since
2006, according to our research. Cosmetics company Lancôme
launched an online community, "Lancôme Rose Beauty," in 2006.
The e-commerce site now reaches consumers in hundreds of smaller
cities in China where Lancôme doesn't have a store, and
claims four million subscribers.
Rising prosperity promises to make China a booming market for
luxury goods for years to come. But before top-end brands can sell
to those consumers they'll need to reach them. That means crafting
effective strategies to branch out of the coastal cities into the
places where the vast majority of China's people live-and shop.
Mr. Lannes is a partner in Bain & Company's Shanghai
office, where he leads the firm's consumer products, luxury and
retail practices in greater China. Mr. Han is a Bain partner in
Shanghai and a member of the firm's consumer products and retail
practices.